Stator voltages - Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net
Audio, Lighting and Electrical For discussion of lighting, stereo, and other electrical components

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 08:55 AM Thread Starter
Paper Boy
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 10
Stator voltages

I am trying to track down a charging system issue. Stator voltages across the three white wires are 13vac, 18vac, 23vac at idle. Are these #s acceptable?
Justinrw is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 09:27 AM
Boss
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justinrw View Post
I am trying to track down a charging system issue. Stator voltages across the three white wires are 13vac, 18vac, 23vac at idle. Are these #s acceptable?
Around 20 VAC seems to be the normal measurement. The 18 and 23 VAC measurements are likely just fine. The 13 VAC measurement is questionable.

Where are you measuring at? If there are any connectors between your measurement point and the stator, unplug the connector and clean up any corrosion, etc. While you are at it, liberally apply silicone dielectric grease onto the contacts. With the connector unplugged, check for continuity to ground from each of the 3 white wires on the stator side. It should be an open circuit on all 3.

2004 Rhino 660
SteveS is offline  
post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 10:30 AM Thread Starter
Paper Boy
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 10
I am measuring at the regulator plug. Ill have to double check but i believe I was getting continuity to ground. Would I not have bigger issues if so? Heres what im dealing wth, If I charge the battery it'll run for most of the day then I'm jumping it. I have a winch & a 25 amp(I think)& speaker setup. My fan does seem to run excessively. Sometimes when battery is dead if dont keep rpms up it'll die but I've also tried disconnecting the batt (charged) while running & it will keep running. If the stator is bad will it act differently while hot or cold. Thanks for the help!
Justinrw is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
Paper Boy
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 10
The amp is a 50 watt poly planar that I just hook an iPod up to.
Justinrw is offline  
post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 11:00 AM
Boss
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justinrw View Post
I am measuring at the regulator plug. Ill have to double check but i believe I was getting continuity to ground. Would I not have bigger issues if so? Heres what im dealing wth, If I charge the battery it'll run for most of the day then I'm jumping it. I have a winch & a 25 amp(I think)& speaker setup. My fan does seem to run excessively. Sometimes when battery is dead if dont keep rpms up it'll die but I've also tried disconnecting the batt (charged) while running & it will keep running. If the stator is bad will it act differently while hot or cold. Thanks for the help!
You apparently have low voltage output on one phase of a 3 phase alternator. I believe that if you measured the DC voltage you will see only slightly over 12.7 volts at the battery terminals while the engine is running. It will take at least 13.2 volts to put a 'trickle' charge on the battery. If everything is right, you should see close to 14 VDC at the battery terminal with the engine running. 1/2 to 1 volt difference while charging makes a huge difference.

If there is continuity from one of the white wires to ground, it is a drain of the voltage that will lead to stator failure. Meanwhile, the voltage is being sucked down. It would likely be the insulation of one of the internal stator windings has failed. I've heard of this happening on occasion.

There is a connector down at the belly pan that carries those 3 white wires from the stator within the engine case into the wire harness. This connector gets submerged if you have water up above or perhaps even with the floorboard. This connector frequently is a failure point and is easy and cheap to clean up.

The 2 right hand columns show the voltage that you should be seeing at the battery with the engine running:


2004 Rhino 660
SteveS is offline  
post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
Paper Boy
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 10
I will do some more poking around tonight but would you guess that my stator is just not quite cutting it & I should get one ordered?
Justinrw is offline  
post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 11:42 AM
Boss
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justinrw View Post
I will do some more poking around tonight but would you guess that my stator is just not quite cutting it & I should get one ordered?
There is a good chance that your stator needs to be replaced, but you want to be sure first.

2004 Rhino 660
SteveS is offline  
post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
Paper Boy
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 10
Should I need a stator, is there anything to be gained or lost by using a high output stator?
Justinrw is offline  
post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 02:22 PM
Boss
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justinrw View Post
Should I need a stator, is there anything to be gained or lost by using a high output stator?
There have been not so good reports on the aftermarket stators, failures soon after installation. However, we rarely hear the good news about any successful installations. The 'high output' is not really a whole lot more, for what it is worth. Perhaps some people will chime in on this, for good or for bad. I, myself, would like to know. I believe Hunterworks had or has an aftermarket stator in his inventory. Perhaps he can give us his opinion on this?

2004 Rhino 660
SteveS is offline  
post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
Paper Boy
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 10
Ok, so I tested the plug directly off the stator. Voltages are 12, 16, 23...ish and they all ring to ground. The plug was also full of oil.
Justinrw is offline  
post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 06:52 PM
Boss
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justinrw View Post
Ok, so I tested the plug directly off the stator. Voltages are 12, 16, 23...ish and they all ring to ground. The plug was also full of oil.
The oil happens, it weeps inside of the wrapping of the wires coming through the case. Some oil resistant silicone injected though the wrapping at the install of the new stator perhaps? You need to seal it in the area where it passes through the grommet. It looks like you need a new stator, unfortunately. It looks like you have burnt coils in 2 of the phases, and a short to ground in any one or more of the coils. Sniff for a burnt electrical smell at the dipstick, that is also a fair diagnostic.

2004 Rhino 660
SteveS is offline  
post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
Paper Boy
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 10
Steves, thanks for all the advise today. Now. Got any tips before I tackle this project; any special tools needed? Should the regulator be replaced also? Stick wth oem?
Justinrw is offline  
post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 08:41 PM
Boss
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justinrw View Post
Steves, thanks for all the advise today. Now. Got any tips before I tackle this project; any special tools needed? Should the regulator be replaced also? Stick wth oem?
I'd stick with OEM just to be on the safe"er" side. Basically you need to take the side blower off (assuming that you have a 660) and then get the side cover off. The stator will be bolted onto the inside of that cover. Get a copy of the service manual if you do not have one. It makes things a while lot less vague. A snip:



It is quite likely that your rectifier/regulator module will be fine.

2004 Rhino 660
SteveS is offline  
post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-19-2013, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
Paper Boy
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 10
Can anything be done to prevent future failures?
Justinrw is offline  
post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-20-2013, 02:57 AM
Boss
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,614
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justinrw View Post
Can anything be done to prevent future failures?
Nothing that I know of. It seems to be the luck of the draw. It could be that overheating the engine could be a factor?

2004 Rhino 660
SteveS is offline  
Reply

  Lower Navigation
Go Back   Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net > Technical > Audio, Lighting and Electrical

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Yamaha Rhino Forum - Rhino Forums.net forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome