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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 02:48 PM Thread Starter
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Starting issues

I have a 2004 rhino 660 that isnt to fond of cold starts. If it has been sitting for a while (couple days) i have to crank and crank and crank before it starts, and during the winter its almost impossible to start. It is always hooked up to a battery tender when its not running. If you boost it with a vehicle or booster pack it starts right away. I asked my dealer about replacing the battery but they said it wouldn't help? I do have a stereo but the tender should take care of any draw from that.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by xceler8 View Post
I have a 2004 rhino 660 that isnt to fond of cold starts. If it has been sitting for a while (couple days) i have to crank and crank and crank before it starts, and during the winter its almost impossible to start. It is always hooked up to a battery tender when its not running. If you boost it with a vehicle or booster pack it starts right away. I asked my dealer about replacing the battery but they said it wouldn't help? I do have a stereo but the tender should take care of any draw from that.
So the "cranking" speed is OK or not (slow cranking could be battery). simply check voltage of battery and this is ggod first step to tell if battery is good. S/B near 12.6. 12.7 is better. If in doubt get a load test on the battery and you are not guessing

From what you say I think it is more a fuel issue. Some i know installed a primer bulb between the thank and the fuel pump ($5 fix) a quick squeeze or two and good to go in coldest weather.

Also, fuel pump is also a vacumm style pump so have you checked fuel flow under vacum? if not making good vacum then this can be cause of trouble as well. Test the pump. Only takes 5 seconds to test it. Check vacum lines for cracks/leaks, etc...

We road yesterday and it was -35 and our 700 started after second short crank. We find up here that it is always maintainance that is the culprit to poor winter starting. Everthing has to be in better shape to run in cold weather as fuel is less vapourous, batteries weaker, oil is thicker, etc....
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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The cranking speed seems ok, when u boost it is still faster though. Primer bulb sounds like a really good idea. When its cranking it doesn't fire at all just cranks and cranks and then finally will fire up and runs like a top the rest of the day.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by xceler8 View Post
The cranking speed seems ok, when u boost it is still faster though. Primer bulb sounds like a really good idea. When its cranking it doesn't fire at all just cranks and cranks and then finally will fire up and runs like a top the rest of the day.
test the pump and make sure no vacum leaks to the pump.
I like the primer issue. I know a lot of non EFI/Electric fuel pump bikes that has done this and it is cheap and helps.

Like in your area we get a lot of cold,

Low temp oil, dipstick heater/inline fluid heater, battery tender, primer bulp, new plug, no vacum leaks and hopefully you are good to go!!

good luck
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xceler8 View Post
The cranking speed seems ok, when u boost it is still faster though. Primer bulb sounds like a really good idea. When its cranking it doesn't fire at all just cranks and cranks and then finally will fire up and runs like a top the rest of the day.
test the pump and make sure no vacum leaks to the pump.
I like the primer issue. I know a lot of non EFI/Electric fuel pump bikes that has done this and it is cheap and helps.

Like in your area we get a lot of cold,

Low temp oil, dipstick heater/inline fluid heater, battery tender, primer bulp, new plug, no vacum leaks and hopefully you are good to go!!

good luck
On the bright side its not outside in the elements its in the garage around 0 degrees (ish) thanks for the help!
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 03:41 PM
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Your losing the fuel pumps prime. There are little one way valves for fuel that work great and are only a few bucks. Other than that you can hold a rag over the intake grid on top of the console, (if you have the snorkle intact) The extra vacuum helps reprime the system. We had a Rhino sit inside the retail store for 6 months and it would only start after I covered the grid with a rag. Once it starts take the rag off.

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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 09:06 PM
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Do you have an aftermarket CDI?? My 06 did and when cold, I would kill my battery trying to start it. If I jump started it it would fire right off.
I got rid of the BRP CDI module and put a later model Procom in it. Now it's fine.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 10:48 PM
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if ur in the cold try a ngk 2202 for the 660 it luves the cold

07 660 SE - White Carbon Fiber Body Kit - Dual SS Polished Muzzy Exhaust - Dynatek CDi - Innovate LC-1 WideBand A/F Gauge Kit - K&N Intake System - Crappy Machine Sheave - 14 Gram Roller Weights - Orange EPI Spring - XMF Bed Delete Kit - Dual Batteries - (4) 7'' hid's - GBC 8ply Dirt Commanders - I-Pod system - PRP Seats - Crow Harnesses - Gear One Steering Rack - Rugged Race Radio 600-2p -
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-17-2009, 06:15 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don308 View Post
Do you have an aftermarket CDI?? My 06 did and when cold, I would kill my battery trying to start it. If I jump started it it would fire right off.
I got rid of the BRP CDI module and put a later model Procom in it. Now it's fine.
This sounds quite plausible. I do have an aftermarket CDI not sure what type i just told them to change it out when i bought it (5 years ago now) and its always been miserable to start. When i say cold start i dont mean cold ambient temperature i just mean cold engine, however the colder it is outside the more cranking i have to do to get it to start. In other words its always a fight, just this time a of year (just had a week of -50°C) its even worse.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-29-2009, 05:42 PM
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I just put a primer bulb on mine and it starts right up now after sitting, it also acts as a check valve to prevent leak back. I went and bought one for a boat with 5/16" barb ends on inlet and outlet.
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post #11 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-29-2009, 05:51 PM
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I still like to use 10 wt oil and an in line hot water engine heater.......tonto
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post #12 of 23 (permalink) Old 12-29-2009, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don308 View Post
Do you have an aftermarket CDI?? My 06 did and when cold, I would kill my battery trying to start it. If I jump started it it would fire right off.
I got rid of the BRP CDI module and put a later model Procom in it. Now it's fine.
I had the same problem with my BRP Cdi. I put my stock box back on, Now mine starts fine. Hot or Cold.

07 Grizzly 700
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06 Rhino 660
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post #13 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-02-2010, 06:30 PM
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has anyone delt with the 700 starting problems yet, mine will not fire off when its cold. I put an msd box on it and it helped but it still starts hard when its like 10 degrees out. The engine spins fine, it will pop off once and a while but thats it. I wonder if a hotter spark plug would work. Any suggestions.

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post #14 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-02-2010, 07:13 PM
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ngk iridium spark plug helps a ton with cold starting and adjusting the valves is a big help if they get tight then its a nightmare to start
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post #15 of 23 (permalink) Old 01-02-2010, 07:24 PM
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any idea on which iridium plug I need, as for the valves the machine only has 19 miles on it.

2009 Yamaha rhino 700
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